Diners in Hong Kong flock to Tin Lung Heen, the Cantonese restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton hotel, to indulge in dim sum made by chef Leung Tsang Hoi. He makes the delicate pouches of homemade dough first thing each morning. "The filling has to be firm," Leung said. "The skin is very important: not too thick, it should not stick on paper or chopsticks, and it should not be overcooked so that the skin falls apart."
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