More than a dozen new French eateries have opened in New York City since last summer, most of them bistros where classically trained American chefs get innovative to create less-formal versions of traditional French dishes. "French was the first so-called gourmet food for most people," said chef Mario Batali. "La Grenouille is there if you want it, but French can be easier than that today."
New York chefs put a less-formal spin on French cuisine
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