The Michelin Guide, first published in 1900, has had a strong influence in the restaurant world. But the author argues that the entries are little more than compilations of cliches, and the star system is not based on objective standards that are explained to readers. "It's not that I don't agree with the Michelin ratings; they're O.K.," he writes. "But I don't understand them, and that's not O.K."
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