Many New York restaurants broke free of upscale trappings and other conventions in 2007 to serve tasty cuisine in less-than-bewitching surroundings, Frank Bruni writes. The food is so good at Bruni's pick for top new restaurant, Momofuku Ssam Bar, that patrons will stand for an hour waiting for a chance to taste it, even if they have to sit at a counter to do so.

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