Veggie burgers, long eschewed by meat eaters and many vegetarians alike as sad and unsatisfying imitations of their meaty role models, are undergoing a renaissance of sorts as chefs across the country play with new ways to create signature meat-free sandwiches. Burger chains and vegetarian restaurants are seeing success with creations such as the mushroom-and-edamame patty with ricotta, truffle aioli and cipollini onions at Umami Burger in Los Angeles.

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