MAC knives are replacing better known cutlery brands in some of the country's top kitchens. Chefs at French Laundry, Per Se and Hawks Restaurant say they have switched because they like the feel and balance of the Japanese-made knives sold by Harold Arimoto in Sacramento, Calif. "It's almost like a baseball mitt. You find a knife you like and you want to keep it. Balance is very important, the way it feels in your hand," said French Laundry chef Thomas Keller.

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