The arrival of summer means it is time to find the perfect white wine for warm-weather fare. The 2011 Y Rousseau Old Vines Colombard is a big improvement over the California wines that have typically been made with the Colombard grape. Winemaker Yannick Rousseau made his first Colombard in his native southwest France, where the variety has a better reputation. He came to California in 1999 and now has his own operation near Napa, which makes use of old-vine grapes that produce a concentrated flavor. Read more.