New York Times food critic Pete Wells' recent review of Daniel points out issues that pop up when high-end restaurant staffers recognize critics and take the service level up a few notches, writes L.V. Anderson in Slate. "Wells should by all means continue to enlist nonfamous to get a sense of how restaurants treat the masses, but it's time for him to stop pretending he blends in with the masses. As far as elite restaurateurs are concerned, he doesn't," Anderson writes.

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