At a recent taste testing of blanco tequila, spirits experts noted the liquor's lack of flavor, Eric Asimov writes. They were more interested in its cousin, mezcal, which is also made of agave. "Tequila producers seem to have taken their cues from the vodka category," says bartender Jim Meehan. "They're trying to make neutral tequilas to appeal to the vodka market."

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