The volume of quality vintages sold at auction is just too high to be 100% authentic, experts say, so the wine industry has started to fight back. Governments and winemakers now test the bottles and labels in interesting and sophisticated ways, such as looking for radioactivity in bottles supposedly sealed before the invention of the atomic bomb. "I think the ostrich strategy, hiding yourself and saying we'll figure it out later, is not satisfying," said Smith Haut Lafitte winemaker Fabien Teitgen.

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