Menus of Change Q&A: Building a better food system, one menu at a time

As the food industry grapples with climate disruption, labor shortages and evolving consumer values, Menus of Change — The Culinary Institute of America’s influential initiative created in partnership with the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health — continues to chart a bold course toward a healthier, more sustainable food future. Now, as industry leaders prepare to gather next week at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., for the thirteenth edition of the summit, the program is evolving in step with the challenges it was designed to address.

We spoke with Abby Fammartino, director of health and sustainability programs for the Strategic Initiatives Group at The Culinary Institute of America, about how the initiative is adapting to meet the moment, what to expect from this year’s summit and why collaboration across culinary, science and business is key to moving from intention to impactful action.

The Menus of Change initiative has been running for over a decade. How has its mission evolved as the food industry has faced challenges like climate change, pandemic disruption and shifting consumer expectations?

The global food system is at a crossroads, with increasing pressures in a constantly changing environment. Climate change, population growth and evolving guest preferences are reshaping the way we produce, consume and think about food. As a result, the food industry faces a complex challenge: how do we provide healthy, sustainable, and – most importantly – delicious menu options while still being profitable?  The CIA’s Menus of Change initiative is designed to help businesses navigate this challenge and continues to address this challenge and evolve along with the industry. Our year-round collaboratives, research agenda and annual leadership summit tackle the most current and pressing topics through the lens of what’s possible, celebrating business and culinary case studies along with science-driven solutions that can be scaled and applied in the foodservice industry.

What new themes or priorities are emerging this year?

This year, we take a look at the many levers of changing menus that occur before, on and after the menu. From sourcing ethical animal proteins, collaborating with policymakers and designing culturally relevant menus informed by global science frameworks, to empowering the food workforce for better business outcomes, innovative culinary-driven food waste solutions, to strategies that enable value and affordability of healthy, sustainable food options for all, this year’s summit will inspire action and celebrate solutions. We will also feature the incredible work of CIA faculty and chefs in all of our meals, receptions and networking breaks, in addition to a mainstage culinary demonstration and interactive culinary demonstrations. 

This event brings together chefs, scientists, and business leaders — why is that cross-disciplinary approach so central to Menus of Change? 

A cross-disciplinary approach is a hallmark component of sustainable food systems. Connecting chefs, sustainability professionals and culinary operators, with nutrition and environmental scientists, academic researchers, behavioral economists and students allows the food industry to act with a science-informed perspective. This enables more success in changing menus, since science and research help inform actions that consumers will enjoy, that improve public and planetary health, and that support business goals.

Are there any surprising partnerships or conversations you’ve seen come out of the summit?

We see many collaborations and partnerships resulting from the Menus of Change initiative and leadership summit, each year! In particular, we love seeing global connections made, and new collaborations and information sharing across industry sectors.

Sustainability is a key pillar of Menus of Change. How do you help culinary professionals move from intention to implementation — especially when cost, labor and sourcing are major pressures?

Sustainability is multi-faceted: it refers to the long-term continuity and viability of people, planet, systems and business, too. We emphasize case studies that solve for the three areas of sustainability: environmental, social and economic. Making the business case for sustainable action is the primary goal of the summit. Our programming highlights solutions that are efficient and effective, enabling businesses to thrive.

What areas do you predict will have the most actionable takeaways from this year’s gathering for chefs and operators trying to design more climate-friendly, culturally relevant menus? 

New perspectives on the EAT-Lancet Planetary Health Diet, paired with hot-off-the-press consumer insights and trends research will arm chefs and operators with new ideas for marketing and menuing culturally-relevant dishes that will resonate with their guests, while keeping menus affordable and delicious. Fresh perspectives on the business case for investing in the food workforce and regional farm producers will also be actionable key takeaways from the summit.

Looking ahead, what gives you the most optimism about the future of food — and what do you think still needs urgent attention from the culinary community?

To act with sustainability in mind is to act with compassion for people and planet, and our world needs more compassion than ever.